RoofRacks[]
Temporary[]
WayneD's temporary roof rack system: http://www.akff.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=2765
$12 per noodle things and $5 per strap. $34 in total. Bargain.
http://www.akff.net/forum/download.php?id=3145&type=image.jpg
http://www.akff.net/forum/download.php?id=3144&type=image.jpg
Loading your Yak[]
There are a few methods available for loading your yak onto roof racks. For those with nice lightweight kayaks, such as a Viking Espri, brute strength can be all you need. For larger, weightier yaks, a little more finesse may be required.
Extender Bars[]
Dodge implemented a great extender-bar setup for loading his Swing onto the racks:
It comprises a galvanised extending tent pole, 2 pieces of hollowed noodle, and to cover the opening on the top of the Rhino rack, a length of alum bar 40mm x 5mm attached with zip ties, which also hold noodle in place.
The prototype that I used for months was only Telstra PVC pipe bound on the old gal pipe bars with duct tape and never failed
The pole is inserted into the bar and extended about 80cms, the noodle is then slipped over the extension..it can be used either side, which is handy when 2 yaks are on top.
There is only 15mm downwards deflection on the end at any point of the loading.
When travelling the pole is closed up and the noodles are slipped over it, and it is thrown into the vehicle...I don't travel with it in the bar.
| Extended bar, ready to load | |
| Swing leaning on bar | |
| End to van | |
| Loaded |
Carpet method[]
This method will work reasonably well with either kayak carriers, or standard roofracks.
| Yak on a diagonal, with the rear close to the lateral line of the car, and front roughly at a point where it will end up on the rear racks. | |
| Same - rear view | |
| Carpet protecting the rear of the car, and over the rear holders. Some people like some carpet or rubber on the ground as well to protrect the rear of the kayak from being grated off by constant contact with the ground | |
| Lift the yak up onto the rear holders. | |
| Slide the yak up to the front, using the carpet (or the hydroglides). Grab the rear handle, and just slide it up. Brace the side with one hand if you need to. | |
| All done |
Here's a quick video also: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6fx5BkiD9nw
T-Bar Loader[]
DSmythe came up with the following loader system for his yak:
The idea of putting the T-piece on the bike rack is that I needed to carry both our bikes and the kayak and this does the job, and at the time there was nothing else available to do both jobs together.
Please remember to make sure the height of the t-piece is level with the racks on your vehicle, or marginally higher.
The metal T-piece has a welded collar, which sits on top of the bike rack shaft which meant I could shorten the length of the shaft, which makes it easier to store in the car, and also allows it to rotate 360 degrees. Costs for the metal T-piece including material and labour through a welding shop was $80.00. Just add insulation around the bar to stop it scratching your canoe/kayak.
The 40mm PVC T-piece was my original one and still works. I put a round piece of timber (cut off cricket wicket) through the horizontal part of the T-piece which was to stop it bending under the weight of the kayak (30kg). The idea of the extended upright pole was to allow it to pass all the way through the shaft of the bike rack and sit on the tow-ball which allows the T-piece to rotate 360degrees. All up the cost of this PVC T-piece was around $30.00.
The biggest expense will be purchasing the bike rack holder. I already had one as we take our bikes on holidays, weekends away and to Brisbane and these are the occasions the kayak gets a fair bit of use as well.
I had a hole drilled through the shaft of the bike rack shaft and through the T- piece shaft so I could slide a bolt through both for when I load the kayak. So if I accidentally knocked the T-piece when putting the rear of the kayak up the T-piece wouldn’t spin out of position and leave you in an awkward position. (Yes it happens, and to me it is a bit of a safety measure) The bolt just acts a temporary locking device for first stage of loading. Once the rear of the kayak is “safely” in the cradle of the T-piece, I slide the bolt out, go to the front of the kayak lift it up off the ground and walk it around to the front of the car.
| View of T-pieces (notice different shaft lengths) | |
| T-piece slotted into bike rack pole | |
| Rear of kayak sitting on T-piece | |
| Full view of kayak on t-piece | |
| Pick front of kayak up and walk around to the front of the car |