Ado's Anchor Trolley for a Hobie Adventure Edit

First and foremost, I can't take the credit for this install. It was inspired by Pauly and his photos of what I believe to be a great solution to a common problem; how to keep a very long trolley out of the way. His solution was simple and used mostly standard parts available from Hobie. See Pauly's solution to the trolley (and all his other great solutions) here...

The basic Anchor Trolley kit can be purchased through Hobie. At around $50, it's not all that costly, but I'm sure there would be cheaper ways if you wanted to substitute some parts. My kit came with photocopied instillation instructions, which were a bit hard to read. I downloaded a PDF copy direct from the Hobie web site.

Have a read of the Hobie instructions, then throw them away. This build is quite different in many ways, and uses some different parts as well. Instread, go to Pauly's post (link above) and print out his photos as a guide. This post may also be of some assistance (if too much information for most of you).

IMHO the advantages of this setup are:

(1) The anchor trolley lines are held away from the top of the deck. This is difficult to achieve on an Adventure due to the length and curve of the hull.

(2) It doesn't interfere with the paddle holder. The two paddle holders remain available.

(3) All holes are above water level (at least for a lightweight like me ...... I hope).

(4) All attachments are accessible (just) allowing nuts to be used instead of well nuts (which I avoid using wherever possible).

(5) The anchor line can be positioned within a foot or so of both bow and stern, with limited trolley stretch.

(6) The existing paddle holder hook can be used to anchor the trolley, so a separate hook or eyelet post is not required.

The disadvantages of this setup are:

(A) It requires additional parts from those supplied in the Hobie Anchor Trolley kit.

(B) Some of the nuts inside the hull are difficult (if not impoosble) for some to reach.

(C) It requires drilling six holes in the kayak hull, some close to water line.

(D) There is some potential interference between the anchor trolley line and the front hatch bungee hook.

The last point could be a pain when trying to close the front hatch, which is already precarious at best in bumpy seas. It could be negated with the use of a third eyelet and eyelet post adjacent to the hatch. I'm awaiting some experience first before drilling the extra hole. It may be prudent to buy the parts (particularly another eyelet post from Hobie) just in case.

Step (1) Assemble the Kit Edit

The Hobie Anchor Trolley kit forms the basis for the build. The parts I DIDN'T use were:

  • The hook.
  • One eyelet (may be needed if a third eyelet is ever required).
  • The three eyelet well nuts and bolts.
  • The two screw in Padeyes.
  • The fastening hardware (bolt, washer and nut) for the eyelet post.

You could use the eyelet post hardware from Hobie, but I found it hard to order a second identical set. Instead, I ordered two spare eyelet posts and bolts from Hobie, so I'd have a matching set. This gives me a spare Eyelet Post set if ever I need it (I can see them getting damaged), or if I decide a third eyelet is required adjacent to the front hatch.

The stuff from the Hobie Anchor Trolley kit that I DID use was:

  • The rope.
  • The bungee.
  • The two Line Blocks (pulleys) with fastening bolts, washers and nuts.
  • Two of the three Eyelets (optional third).
  • The Eyelet Post.

The additional stuff that you need to purchase separately from the Hobie Anchor Trolley kit is.

  • Two stainless steel hooks from the local shipchandler.
  • A second and optional third Eyelet Post (part 41220001) from Hobie, complete with bolt(s) (part 8031130 I think).
  • A second and optional third stainless steel nyloc nut and washer from the local shipchandler to fit the Eyelet Post bolts.

The complete kit (assuming two eyelets and posts) is shown in the photo below. You will also need Selley's All Clear, a phillips head screwdriver and a shifting spanner (a small socket would be a distinct advantage, especially if you have short arms).

Step (2) - Mount Front Eyelet and Eyelet Post Edit

As I knew where I wanted to mount the eyelets, I did these first. This allowed me to check the lay of the trolley rope as I later found the correct location for the front and rear pulley. In short, the eyelet positions I knew. The pulley positions I didn't. The locations that I chose for the eyelets were the two moulded paddle locators. These seem ideal as they are flat and are nearly the widest points of the kayak, keeping the trolley rope as far away from the deck as possible. I chose to put the trolley on the RHS, as this is the side that I generally fish from, and being right handed, it makes it easier for me to use.

I first placed the paddle in the right hand paddle holder. I then chose the location as high as possible on the paddle locator (to keep it as far above the waterline as possible), without interfering with the paddle when its in the holder. I allowed a small clearance between the paddle and the eyelet (see photo below), then marked the hole with a centre punch.

Next, it was out with the drill (gulp). As always, I drilled a small pilot hole before drilling the larger hole for the eyelet bolt. If you have a 2008 model, then be careful drilling in this location as the rudder lowering cable is very close.

Now here's the simple piece of genious from Pauly. An eyelet post is mounted with the eyelet. This allows the free rope to be located at the same point as the captured rope, keeping both together and out of the way. The eyelet post bolt is slipped first through the eyelet post, then the eyelet as shown in the next photo. As always, I placed a dob of All Clear in the hole (not shown in photo) and also on the face of the washer that locates against the inside of the hull. The latter also helps to hold the washer in place as you fiddle with the nut. I also screw the nyloc nut onto the bolt before I try to mount it. This creates a thread in the nylon insert, making the nut easier to do up inside the hull.

Now the tricky bit. Reach in through the centre hatch. Use zen to slow your breathing, think positive calming thoughts, and try to get the nut on the bolt a few turns. Use another nut to guage the gap in the shifting spanner, then use it to hold the nut with your left hand while you screw up the phillips head bolt with the right. Two people would be VERY handy here, but not as much as it is for the rear eyelet! Trust me, it is possible to do it with one person, but not without considerable mental and physical stress. Tighten as much as you can, clean up the excess All Clear (there should be some), stand back and admire. It only gets harder from here.

You can see the finished eyelet setup in the photo above. You can see how the captured rope passes through the eyelet while the free rope locates under the eyelet post. Thanks Pauly!

Step (3) Mounting Rear Eyelet and Eyelet Post Edit

Repeat the sequence described in Step (2); locate eyelet with paddle in paddle holder, mark centre, remove paddle, drill pilot hole, drill larger hole, apply All Clear to hole (see photo below) and washer.

Now it gets really tricky. Unless you have arms like Mr Gadget Man, you may need to borrow a second pair of hands. I'm 5'8", and have reasonably long arms for my height. I found that I could juuuuuust reach the hole from the centre hatch with the tip of my longest finger. To get the extra millimetres of reach required, I unscrewed the hatch and removed it (see photo below). I also needed to get my young daughter to hold the screwdriver and turn it twice as I held the nut between the tips of my two longest fingers. This was enough to get the nut onto the bolt one turn. What then followed was about 20 minutes of frustration as I was gradually able to tighten the bolt with the screwdriver in my left hand while holding the nut with the shifter in my right. A socket set, a second strong person, or both would make this sooooo much simpler. Nevertheless, it can be done with one person so long as you have longer arms than me. The result is two mounted eyelets, and most of the hard work done (see photo below).

Step (4) Mount Front Pulley Edit

I wanted to place the front pulley as close to the bow as possible. The limiting factor was reach through the front hatch. I used a headlamp in my left hand to shine a light through the hull so I could see exactly where the extent of my reach was. I marked this with a scratch. I then threaded the rope through the two mounted eyelets so could see where the captured rope would lay (see photo below).

After much internal debate, I decided on a location that was just above the hull seam, at the extent of my reach. This seemed to be pretty close to where Pauly mounted his, so I figured I wouldn't be the only one that got it wrong! This keeps the drill holes above the water line, the pulley (and therefore the anchor point) very close to the front (around the 12" suggested by Hobie). It also means that the captured rope will lay just on top of the deck where it passes the front hatch (see photo above). This isn't too bad, but it may prove annoying when trying to secure the right hatch bungee. Only time will tell. If this proves a problem, then it could be easily resolved with the optional third eyelet and eyelet post adjacent to the hatch. The free rope that is laying across the centre of the hatch should be ignored in the photo as it will eventually be kept parallel to the captured rope, off the deck

Mark the location of the first hole (the one in the centre of the pulley) with a hole punch. Then drill the pilot, drill the larger hole, apply All Clear and fit the pulley. If you've mounted it as far forward as possible, it will again be difficult to tighten. The pain versus gain is up to you.

I found that I needed to bend the washers slightly to sit flush with the inside of the hull, which is slightly curved at this point. After tightening the first nut, use the pulley as a guide to drilling the second hole (see photo below).

After a dab of All Clear to the hole (see below) and to the inside face of the washer, secure the second nut and tighten the first nut again. Once both are as tight as possible, breathe a sigh of relief. All the pain and frustration is now over. The rest is a snap.

Step (5) - Mount Rear Pulley Edit

Thread the rope downward through the front (attached) pulley and rear (unattached) pulley. Tie a temporary knot in the free rope. This will help you to choose the best location for mounting the rear pulley (see photo below). Once again, I used Pauly's photos as a guide, with the location being a trade-off between keeping the drill holes as far as possible above the water line, while keeping the rope as low as possible and off the deck.

The location I selected was again just above the seam, between the Hobie motif and the drain hole (see photo below). You should however note where the waterline is on your fully loaded kayak, and ensure the holes are above it. I weigh a mere 63kg so don't necessarily use my location if you weigh 120kg!

Mark the hole in the pulley centre with a hole punch, drill pilot, drill larger hole, bend washer to fit inside of hull, dab of All Clear in hole and on washer, and screw up the nut. Use the pulley as the template to drill the second hole (see photo below), and repeat the procedure to fit the second bolt. The rudder cables should be well away from this location, but be careful when drilling.

All holes are now drilled, all attachments are secured and tightened, and all pigs are fed and ready to fly.

Step (6) - Attach Trolley Rope Edit

Thread the captured rope down through both the front and rear pulleys. Attach one end of the bungee to the rope with a secure knot (see photo below). I used a figure of eight knot because I'm a climber and that's what we always use. I'm sure there are plenty of others that are just as good, but these are important knots so be dilligent. Try to make the loop and knot as small as possible to allow the hooks to be placed close to the bungee.

Tie the other end of the rope and bungee using a loose knot (see photo below).

Now tighten the second knot to stretch the bungee. I used my feet to keep the rope tight while I fed rope through the knot to tighten it. Leave a long tail on the rope for now (see photo below) until you've attached the hooks and checked the slack.

Make a loop in the rope by stretching the bungee again. Thread this loop through the hole in the hook, and loop it over the hook (see photo below). This allows the hooks to be removed or replaced without untying the trolley.

Attach the second hook on the other side of the bungee by using the same method (see photo below). If you have the tension right, It should be very hard to create the second loop and get it over the hook. Move both hooks as close as possible to the ends of the bungee. The two hooks allow you to get the anchor rope as close as possible to both the bow and stern. To anchor from the bow, use the front hook. To anchor from the stern, switch to the rear hook. This method minimises the degree of distance that the rope is pulled away from the hull while anchored. Once again, I stole this modification from Pauly.

Before you trim the rope, ensure there is sufficient give in the system to loop the captured rope around the paddle keeper hook. This will be necessary to secure the trolley forward or aft. The system should, however, the tight enough to keep the free rope located under the eyelet posts.

Sit back, have a beer, and bask in your success. The completed trolley can be seen below, compelling viewing for at least one Schnauser.

Anchor Trolley

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